A Survey of traditional natural dye practice of Sri Lanka Today: A possible path pointing towards the development of the natural dye industry
Keywords:
Natural dye, Tradition, Milky sap, Tannin, Mud dyeing, Darker hues
Abstract
Aim: The research aims to unearth cultural norms for using natural dyes that can be adapted for modern clothing production. The ability to dye with natural pigments is compared to synthetic dyes. Natural dyeing problems include a lengthy extraction process, moderate colorfastness to washing and light, and a lack of availability in large quantities, making them some of today’s most pressing research priorities. To achieve more vibrant colors, most modern users of natural dyes resort to fixing agents containing heavy metal chemicals, which negatively affect environmental health. Sustainability in clothing has recently emerged as an important metric for the fashion industry.
Method: Primary data was gathered through in-depth, descriptive interviews with people who have been using natural dyes for a long time in their craft. Black clay dyeing and the process of dying Buddhist robes with indigo have both been used for centuries. As practiced traditionally, natural dyes, mordants, fixing agents, and washing and drying practices are documented.
Findings: It was discovered that plants producing milky sap, tannin such exudations, and mud dyeing are effective fixing agents for producing more vibrant colors.
Implications/Novel Contribution: In this study, we propose the true concept of natural dyeing, which can be used as a selling point when promoting naturally colored goods.
References
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Belemkar, S., & Ramachandran, M. (2015). Recent trends in indian textile industry-exploring novel natural dye products and resources. International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes, 1(3), 33-41.
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Chequer, F. D., Oliveira, G. A. R., Ferraz, E. A., Cardoso, J. C., Zanoni, M. B., & Oliveira, D. P. (2013). Textile dyes: Dyeing process and environmental impact. Eco-Friendly Textile Dyeing and Finishing, 6(6), 151-176.
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Coomaraswamy, A. (1956). Mediaeval sinhalese art. London, UK: Pantheon Books.
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Ferlien, M. B., John, B. R., Sema, E. S. P., & Vivien, L. M. (2018). Screening of anticholinesterase activity of alkaloids from extracts of ten selected indigenous plants in Mindanao. Journal of Applied and Physical Sciences, 4(2), 69-78. doi:https://doi.org/10.20474/japs-4.2.4
Fletcher, K. (2009). Systems change for sustainability in textiles. In, Sustainable textiles. California, CA: Woodhead Publishing.
Gulrajani, M. L. (2001). Present status of natural dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre and textile Research, 26(7), 191-201.
Imendra, W. D. (2019). Traditional dye practitioner. Pugoda, Sri Lanka: South Asia Textiles Limited.
Jacobsen, T. (2010). Beauty and the brain: Culture, history and individual differences in aesthetic appreciation. Journal of Anatomy, 216(2), 184-191. doi:https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1469-7580.2009.01164.x
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Krizova, H. (2015). Natural dyes: Their past, present, future and sustainability: Recent developments in fibrous material science. Prague, Czech Republic: Kosmas Publishing.
Leder, H., Belke, B., Oeberst, A., & Augustin, D. (2004). A model of aesthetic appreciation and aesthetic judgments. British Journal of Psychology, 95(4), 489-508. doi:https://doi.org/10.1348/0007126042369811
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Max, M. F. (1982). Mahavaggapali. New Dehli, India: Sage Publications.
Merriam, S. B. (2002). Introduction to qualitative research. Qualitative Research in Pactice Journal, 1(1), 1-17.
Mozaffari, E., & Maleki, B. (2018). Alum mineral and the importance for textile dyeing. Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering, 3(4), 85-87. doi:https://doi:10.19080/CTFTTE.2018.03.555619
Muthunayaka, J. N. (2019). Senior scientist (Technical Report). Department of Textile Industry, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Nawrot, J., Wilk-Jedrusik, M., Nawrot, S., Nawrot, K., Wilk, B., Dawid-Pac, R., & Gornowicz-Porowska, J. (2020).
Milky sap of greater celandine (chelidonium majus l.) and anti-viral properties. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 17(5), 1540-1560. doi:https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph17051540
Saltzman, M. (1992). Identifying dyes in textiles. American Scientist, 80(5), 474-481.
Samanta, A., & Agarwal, P. (2009). Application of natural dyes on textiles. Retrieved from https://bit.ly/3mdLP9i
Vankar, P. S. (2000). Chemistry of natural dyes. Resonance, 5(10), 73-80. doi:https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02836844
Vankar, P. S., Shanker, R., & Wijayapala, S. (2009). Dyeing of cotton, wool and silk with extract of allium cepa. Pigment & Resin Technology, 5(7), 45-90. doi:https://doi.org/10.1108/03699420910973332
Verenkar, N., & Krishnan, S. (2017). Dyeing of cotton and silk with eco-friendly dyes extracted from bark of mangrove species rhizophora mucronata and ceriops tagal. Retrieved from https://bit.ly/3m34CnJ
Wikramasinghe, S. (2019). Traditional dye practitioner. London, UK: Sage Publications.
Yadav, D., Yadav, K. S., & Singh, S. (2018). Mango: Taxonomy and botany. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 7(2), 3253-3258.
Yin, R. K. (2003). Design and methods. London, UK: Routledge.
Yusuf, M., Shabbir, M., & Mohammad, F. (2017). Natural colorants: Historical, processing and sustainable prospects. Natural Products and Bioprospecting, 7(1), 123-145. doi:https://doi.org/10.1007/s13659-017-0119-9
Zarkogianni, M., Mikropoulou, E., Varella, E., & Tsatsaroni, E. (2011). Colour and fastness of natural dyes: Revival of traditional dyeing techniques. Coloration Technology, 127(1), 18-27. doi:https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2010.00273.x
Arasaratnam, S. (1958). Dutch power in ceylon, 1658-1687 published under the auspices of the Netherlands institute for international cultural relations (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). University of London, London, UK.
Bechtold, T., Turcanu, A., Ganglberger, E., & Geissler, S. (2003). Natural dyes in modern textile dye houseshow to combine experiences of two centuries to meet the demands of the future? Journal of Cleaner Production, 11(5), 499-509. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/S0959-6526(02)00077-X
Belemkar, S., & Ramachandran, M. (2015). Recent trends in indian textile industry-exploring novel natural dye products and resources. International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes, 1(3), 33-41.
Cardon, D. (2009). Colours in civilizations of the world and natural colorants: History under tension. London, UK: Sage Publications.
Chequer, F. D., Oliveira, G. A. R., Ferraz, E. A., Cardoso, J. C., Zanoni, M. B., & Oliveira, D. P. (2013). Textile dyes: Dyeing process and environmental impact. Eco-Friendly Textile Dyeing and Finishing, 6(6), 151-176.
Coomaraswamy, A. (1907). Notes on painting, dying, lacework, dumbara mats, and paper in Ceylon. Journal of The Royal Asiatic Society, 5(58), 1-16.
Coomaraswamy, A. (1913). Art and crafts of india and ceylon. New Delhi, Inida: Today and Tomorrows Printers and Publishers.
Coomaraswamy, A. (1956). Mediaeval sinhalese art. London, UK: Pantheon Books.
Dilhani, A. (1959). Textile industry of ancient sri lanka. London, UK: Sage Publications.
Ferlien, M. B., John, B. R., Sema, E. S. P., & Vivien, L. M. (2018). Screening of anticholinesterase activity of alkaloids from extracts of ten selected indigenous plants in Mindanao. Journal of Applied and Physical Sciences, 4(2), 69-78. doi:https://doi.org/10.20474/japs-4.2.4
Fletcher, K. (2009). Systems change for sustainability in textiles. In, Sustainable textiles. California, CA: Woodhead Publishing.
Gulrajani, M. L. (2001). Present status of natural dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre and textile Research, 26(7), 191-201.
Imendra, W. D. (2019). Traditional dye practitioner. Pugoda, Sri Lanka: South Asia Textiles Limited.
Jacobsen, T. (2010). Beauty and the brain: Culture, history and individual differences in aesthetic appreciation. Journal of Anatomy, 216(2), 184-191. doi:https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1469-7580.2009.01164.x
Kahraman, C. (2016). Role of geography in environmental education. International Journal of Humanities, Arts and Social Sciences, 2(4), 121-125. doi:https://doi.org/10.20469/ijhss.2.20001-4
Kalyanathissa, R. T. (2019). Traditional robe dyeing, galduwa aranya, ambalangoda. Retrieved from https://bit.ly/360gTnt
Kant, R. (2012). Textile dyeing industry an environmental. Natural Science, 4(1), 45-70. doi:https://doi.org/10.4236/ns.2012.41004
Krizova, H. (2015). Natural dyes: Their past, present, future and sustainability: Recent developments in fibrous material science. Prague, Czech Republic: Kosmas Publishing.
Leder, H., Belke, B., Oeberst, A., & Augustin, D. (2004). A model of aesthetic appreciation and aesthetic judgments. British Journal of Psychology, 95(4), 489-508. doi:https://doi.org/10.1348/0007126042369811
Limaye, M. V., Bacsik, Z., Schutz, C., Dembele, A., Plea, M., Andersson, L., & Bergstrom, L. (2012). On the role of tannins and iron in the bogolan or mud cloth dyeing process. Textile Research Journal, 82(18), 1888-1896. doi:https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517512452955
Linton, C. (2020). Making it for our country: An ethnography of mud-dyeing on Amami Oshima Island. Textile, 5(7), 1-28. doi:https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2019.1690837
Max, M. F. (1982). Mahavaggapali. New Dehli, India: Sage Publications.
Merriam, S. B. (2002). Introduction to qualitative research. Qualitative Research in Pactice Journal, 1(1), 1-17.
Mozaffari, E., & Maleki, B. (2018). Alum mineral and the importance for textile dyeing. Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering, 3(4), 85-87. doi:https://doi:10.19080/CTFTTE.2018.03.555619
Muthunayaka, J. N. (2019). Senior scientist (Technical Report). Department of Textile Industry, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Nawrot, J., Wilk-Jedrusik, M., Nawrot, S., Nawrot, K., Wilk, B., Dawid-Pac, R., & Gornowicz-Porowska, J. (2020).
Milky sap of greater celandine (chelidonium majus l.) and anti-viral properties. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 17(5), 1540-1560. doi:https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph17051540
Saltzman, M. (1992). Identifying dyes in textiles. American Scientist, 80(5), 474-481.
Samanta, A., & Agarwal, P. (2009). Application of natural dyes on textiles. Retrieved from https://bit.ly/3mdLP9i
Vankar, P. S. (2000). Chemistry of natural dyes. Resonance, 5(10), 73-80. doi:https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02836844
Vankar, P. S., Shanker, R., & Wijayapala, S. (2009). Dyeing of cotton, wool and silk with extract of allium cepa. Pigment & Resin Technology, 5(7), 45-90. doi:https://doi.org/10.1108/03699420910973332
Verenkar, N., & Krishnan, S. (2017). Dyeing of cotton and silk with eco-friendly dyes extracted from bark of mangrove species rhizophora mucronata and ceriops tagal. Retrieved from https://bit.ly/3m34CnJ
Wikramasinghe, S. (2019). Traditional dye practitioner. London, UK: Sage Publications.
Yadav, D., Yadav, K. S., & Singh, S. (2018). Mango: Taxonomy and botany. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 7(2), 3253-3258.
Yin, R. K. (2003). Design and methods. London, UK: Routledge.
Yusuf, M., Shabbir, M., & Mohammad, F. (2017). Natural colorants: Historical, processing and sustainable prospects. Natural Products and Bioprospecting, 7(1), 123-145. doi:https://doi.org/10.1007/s13659-017-0119-9
Zarkogianni, M., Mikropoulou, E., Varella, E., & Tsatsaroni, E. (2011). Colour and fastness of natural dyes: Revival of traditional dyeing techniques. Coloration Technology, 127(1), 18-27. doi:https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2010.00273.x
Published
2020-12-14
Section
Articles
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
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